Best Restaurants in Madrid: La Taquería de Birrä

La Taquería de Birrä
C/ Don Pedro, 11
M-F, 19:30-2:30; Sat.-Sun. and holidays, 13:00-2:30
913 651 077 / 913 664 539
Cost: Expect to pay about 12 euros a person

Don’t be fooled by the unassuming outside of La Taquería de Birrä; inside, there are two floors of exuberantly decorated dining spaces waiting to make you and your party feel like you’re in something akin to a Mexican cantina.  

Covering the walls are black and white photos of men donning sombreros and seductive cabaret singers from once upon a time, numerous old telephones, colorful murals of tropical beach settings, relief-like adornments that incorporate corn goddesses and Aztec suns, and a giant statue of a Mariachi near a towering fake palm tree.  Over the speakers you can hear Mexican corridos, narrative songs usually about love…or murder.  Cast iron lamps, which are more aesthetic than functional, dimly light each hallway and table.  In the smoking section, a huge artisan-crafted bellows takes up almost an entire wall.

While the kitsch factor may verge on tacky, it makes the experience at this Mexican joint light-hearted.  And it certainly doesn’t distract from the reasonably priced menu, which features what you would expect at a taquería (a taco shop): tacos, and a gamut of other tasty items that originated from “south of the border,” as they say in the U.S.  

The first thing to decide is if you want a beer or a cocktail. I suggest a cold bottle of Pacífico or a Coronita with lemon; their margaritas are made with traditional Sauza tequila, but are too sweet.  After that, an appetizer might be in the works.  Even though the extremely attentive staff will bring you a small plate of tortilla chips and two different kinds of salsa after seating you (one of them tastes like a spicy version of the tomate served on breakfast tostadas), it will be difficult to resist the call of the homemade guacamole, which actually tastes homemade.  The list of entradas, or starters, also offers a bean dish, quesadillas, nachos, a cesar salad, and a Birrä house salad.  

For the main course, a section of the menu offers platos y antojitos – full plates and small dishes – such as tamales and enchiladas (vegetarian options available).  A list of guisados, or stews, will satisfy the heartier eater.  The main attraction, however, are the various tacos which the restaurant heralds as their specialty.  One of my dining partners opted for the tacos with steak and poblano chiles, which came in three mini flour tortillas (like all the taco plates) and doused in jack cheese.  The tacos al pastor, Shepherd’s style tacos, came stuffed with pineapple and pork that had been marinated in chili peppers, spices and herbs.  The enchilada with mole, a thick chocolate-tinged sauce that is famous within Mexico’s culinary tradition, was another big hit.  While I was disappointed when I saw that none of the dishes came with rice or refried beans, or that the restaurant doesn’t offer a menú del día (a menu of the day), the cheesiness and the richness of each bite was well worth the trip, as well as the chance to eat Mexican food that is spicy and flavorful – an apparent rarity in Madrid.  Ask any of the waiters and they’ll tell you why La Taquería de Birrä guarantees the best and the most authentic food: all of its products are shipped directly from Mexico!

By Michelle Campagna

To return to the main page click here.