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Spanish — By MAP on August 31, 2010 at 9:59 pm

Madrid Dishes We Dare You to Try

You’ve landed in Madrid and you’re ready to explore its narrow streets, bustling plazas, historical sites, and  try traditional dishes, but for those thrill-seekers out there is that enough?  When it comes to food there’s plenty of tasty yet strange, actually some would possibly say disgusting, dishes you should surely try if you want to feel like a “real” Madrileno.  All these dishes will have any vegetarian running for the hills. Here are four plates we dare you to try and if you have any complaints, well, we double dog dare you to raise that to your waiter as well!

Morcilla – Sausage stuffed with pig’s blood, onions, and rice
The wonderful news about Morcilla (black pudding) is, well, you can find it pretty much everywhere. Walk in to any tapas bar in the La Latina neighborhood and you’re bound to see people eating it by the mouth full.  Although it looks gross (black, almost purple-lish in color, and thick), it’s actually really sweet tasting and addictive. Depending on where you go they may stuff it with different spices, but the main ingredient, pig and pig’s blood, well, you can’t really swap that for something else. I’d definitely recommend eating it with lots of bread on the first try … it’s an acquired taste.

Cochinillo – Suckling pig
The best Cochinillo in Madrid is served at Botin (Calle de los Cuchilleros, 17, Metro: Tirso de Molina / Sol, Telephone: 91 366 42 17). Botin is noted in the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest restaurant in the world, and has been mentioned in many famous literary texts (the owner, Carlos, says that Hemmingway finished the last page of The Sun Also Rises at an upstairs table). The current owners’ grandparents bought the establishment over ninety years ago,  and they’ve used the same oven since 1725, which is maybe why their suckling pig is the best in the city. The restaurant has strict rules for the little piggies before they arrive at the restaurant. They cannot be over four kilos or twenty days in age, and the must have only been fed mother’s milk. Once the piglets arrive at the restaurant they are put into the oven for two and a half hours. To get a glimpse of the little ones waiting to be placed in the oven – walk straight back from the entrance and look in to see the shelves of piglets and the ancient oven.

Oreja de Cerdo = Pig ears
I’d say if you don’t know how make pig ears (do you fry or boil them?) then head to Bodegas de la Ardosa (Calle Colon, 13, Metro: Chueca, 91 521 4979). Founded in 1892 and known as the seventh oldest tavern in Madrid, here is where you can enjoy a succulent pig ear all for yourself. Lucky for you, they serve this Spanish delicacy with Salsa Brava (red sauce).

Gallinejas, Entresijos and Mollejas – All parts of a lamb fried in its own fat!
One of the fattiest and almost gut wrenching (not only when it goes down but also the smell) must try foods are the Gallinejas, Entresijos and Mollejas. The best place, and one of the few places that still serves them, is  Gallinejas Embajadores (Calle Embajadores, 84, Metro: Embajadores). The large plate shows off the loveliest fatty fried pieces of lamb and they top it off with some french fries. Yep, you’re all set for a great night owt on the town, or on the toilet.

Complain or Change of order
You’ve decided to try one of the foods mentioned above and you don’t like your meal, or after you’ve ordered you’ve changed your mind. Well, we dare you to ask the waiter to change your order, or complain that the food is too salty, fatty, or the fish is not fresh, the meat is not cooked enough. In Madrid the service at restaurants is not like in other parts of the world … But if you’re up for a heckle and big-to-do it’s a great way to entertain yourself and the people you’re with.


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Spanish — By MAP on July 6, 2010 at 5:45 pm

Traditional Tapas in Sol

Located just off of Puerta del Sol, Taberna La Soberbia is the perfect place for anyone trying to experience traditional Madrid dining.  Its affordable but high-quality tapas, “raciones” and delicious sangria make it an ideal place to take visitors.  It’s nearly always packed so if you like an earlier dinner, try getting there around 21:00 or 21:30 p.m.  Its proximity to the central hub of the city makes it a convenient and popular stop for tourists, but inside you will always find its fair share of locals.

Every time you walk in or out the waiters will greet you in unison.  It’s quite nice actually, and you are almost always shown to a table immediately.  I have found Taberna La Soberbia to be the most affordable place to go for good “jamón serrano” in Madrid.  While other places often charge about 15€ for a ration of ham, the tavern offers a half ration for 8€, which is plenty for up to four people, providing you order other things. Other favorites include the “albóndigas” (meatballs in sauce) and, best of all, the “pimientos rellenos de bacalao” (peppers stuffed with cod), which are absolutely divine.  Also delicious are the Cogollos con ahumados (little lettuce hearts with smoked fish) and the Morcilla (although, if you get a chance to travel to Burgos, you should definitely taste this traditional blood sausage there as well).

The establishment actually served as a traditional little tavern under the first republic.  It was renovated in 2000 with prized Adolfo Montes Tiles.  The inside is quite beautiful, with lovely tiles and dark wood paneling.  Flamenco music supposedly plays in the background, if you can hear over the chattering buzz.

Come here on a night with friends to enjoy a long Spanish dinner, complete with the after-dinner “sobremesa”.  Just to make you feel extra special, your waiter will bring you a “chupito de la casa” (a little shot of the house digestive liqueur) after your meal. After being wined and dined here in the heart of Madrid, you’re set to head off to any of the surrounding bars and clubs.

In terms of delicious traditional food at a reasonable price, it’s hard to beat Taverna La Soberbia in the immediate Sol area.  Drop by for breakfast or dinner and see for yourself!

A warning for girls: the waiters can be flirtatious, but never to excess.

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Taberna La Soberbia
Calle Espoz y Mina, 1
Phone: 91 531 05 76
Price: Dinner: 15-20 euros per person with drinks
Hours:  Breakfasts: 9 a.m.- 12 p.m. Monday- Saturday.  Dinner: 21:00 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Monday- Wednesday, 21:00 p.m.- 2:00 a.m. Thursday, 21:00 p.m.- 2:30 a.m. Friday, Saturday, 21:00 p.m.- 1:30 a.m. Sunday.
Metro: Sol

By Chloé Rousseau

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Spanish — By MAP on June 30, 2010 at 11:47 am

A Clandestine Hangout with Some Darn Fine Hummus!


Hidden off the beaten track, on a quiet side street of Alonso Martínez, you will find one of those rare treasures that even the Goonies would be going crazy for. La Vaquería Suiza (The Swiss Dairy) is simple in décor, with high ceilings, white wood and comfortable furniture. The atmosphere inside is generally pretty relaxed. Weekday evenings it is perfect for an after-work drink or to catch up with friends. During lunchtime it can get a little crowded so to avoid fighting for your food I suggest arriving before 14:00 p.m. to ensure getting a table. In the evenings it’s not a problem to dine without a reservation but if there’s a group of you going on a Friday or Saturday then ring ahead first just to make sure. The staff are relentlessly friendly and helpful, and during the quieter times they’re more than happy to chat. In a city not known for its servicio al cliente, this is one place that will put a smile on your face with the service they give.

On the menu you’ll find a variety of dishes and there appears to be no apparent ‘theme’, but that’s fine by me because I’ve tried nearly everything on the menu and liked it all. The quality and size of the portions are pretty decent and for me there are 2 particular stars on the menu. The first being the hummus, which is a great sharing dish and is absolutely delicious (especially if you’re a garlic fan like I am). Coming from a nation of hummus lovers, I’ve had my fair share of garbanzo experiences and La Vaquería Suiza is up there near the top of my list. The other culinary treat comes in the form of the mushroom crepes that are a delight for any fungophiles out there – scrumptastic! Also not to be ignored are the range of salads on offer for those of you wanting a lighter and healthier option. If you often find it hard to agree on a place for you and a group of friends then make your way to La Vaquería because the menu is varied enough to sort you all out with a happy belly.

Plates: 7-12€
Hours: Mon-Sat 09:00 a.m.-00:00 a.m. (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)
Metro: Alonso Martínez

La Vaquería Suiza
Calle de Blanca de Navarra, 8
28010 Madrid, España
Tel: 913 106 242

By Tom Burgess

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Restaurants & Cafés — By MAP on June 17, 2010 at 4:40 pm

Top 10 restaurants in Madrid under 15€

For being a large, modern European capital, Madrid manages to provide many options for reasonably priced meals and though everyone has their own definition of what’s “cheap” anytime the bill comes in at under 15€ per diner it’s safe to say that most of us can find a way to cover it. Check out MAP’s Top 10 restaurants under 15€ in madrid, with special attention paid to providing you with a variety of different types of food from all around the world.

  1. Alfredo’s Barbacoa – While I will admit there is a certain amount of expat bias in writing this, for pure value there is not much more bang-for-your-buck than the burger at Alfredo’s. Starting at a tick under 6€ the burger uses some of the highest quality beef available and the authentic charcoal grilling seals in the juices and leaves you thinking only about the next time you can come back.
  2. El Rey de Tallerines – The highlight of all the ethnic restaurants that fill C/ San Bernardino, when you need a noodle-fix this is Madrid’s go-to location. As the name suggests the noodles rule the menu but even when adding a few of their appetizers you can still keep your bill well within reason.
  3. Maoz – When looking for cheap options, the falafel automatically comes to my mind. While Madrid’s choices are seriously lacking (in quality not quantity), Maoz is the exception in a sea of bland, soggy, re-heated falafels that you will find around the city. So next time you want a freshly prepared falafel, head to one of their two locations in Madrid and get one with all of fixings, fries and a drink for well under 10€.
  4. La Musa – Madrid has had a seemingly exponential explosion of modern/fusion-style tapas restaurants spring up in recent years, but La Musa is one of the originals and still one of the best. For a combination of vibe, variety and a great price-to-quality ratio in their food, it is one of the best options Madrid has to offer. Where else can you sample fried green tomatoes, wild boar, sushi and then wash it down with a German-import house caña and still keep it under 15€ per diner?
  5. Casa Julio – What more of a recommendation do you need than from U2 and MAP’s founder? Casa Julio is a Malasaña staple and has been serving-up their renowned croquetas for years now to the delight of many a diner. This place is typical Spanish tapas at its best; shared plates that fill you up and don’t put too much of a dent in your wallet.
  6. Hare Krishna center – While it is not formally a restaurant this cultural center puts out a buffet that is a dream come true for vegetarians on a budget. Healthful and tasty veggies, salads, rice, tofu and desserts are what fill your belly but the place also provides a unique dining experience that you won’t find anywhere else.
  7. Taberna Griega – Just how do you pronounce the word ‘Gyro’? We may never know, but we’ll keep eating them as long as they taste good, come wrapped in a pita and slathered with tzatziki sauce. But wait the Greeks offer even more delicious food, so head down Taberna Griega to sample all of the delightful little treats Greece has to offer and at the same time keeping it very affordable.
  8. La Vita É Bella – Another standard bearer in the hunt for cheap food is the slice of pizza and Madrid has a surprising amount of options when it comes to this pocket book savior. By far the most renowned of these is La Vita E Bella, whose take-out Italian posts number three and spread through the Malasaña and Chueca neighborhoods. The thick, cheesy, square slice can be an entire meal for some and when it comes in at 2.50€ per slice, who can complain?
  9. Creperie Ma Bretagne – While some only think of the sweet variety when you mention the crepe, the savory version allows you to enjoy a crepe as part of a meal instead of only as a desert. Ma Bretagne is a cozy little restaurant that provides a different option when it comes to dining out in Madrid and the authentic taste of their crepes makes it well worth a stop next time you’re looking to mix-up your dining ritual.
  10. La Bardemcilla – While this restaurant can’t properly be called cheap, if you show some restraint you can keep it under 15€ per person. However, for bearing the name of a celebrity, it is as cheap as you will find and this is where the real value comes in. The name refers to Javier Bardem who burst on to the Hollywood scene after his role in No Country for Old Men and who is now a household name. The place offers a fun dining experience by naming the menu items after his movies and gives you something to tell your friends about, not to mention the food is delicious.

Cheap dining in Madrid isn’t too hard to find if you know the right places, not to mention Madrid
also provides you with many different varieties of food and in restaurants so as to keep your palette from getting dull. Check out
MAP’s complete list of restaurants for more great recommendations.

By Coleman File


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American — By MAP on June 15, 2010 at 11:35 am

Alfredo’s Barbacoa: Salamanca’s Stupendous Bargain BBQ Scene


29 years ago, in 1981, a New Yorker with a passion for good hearty food opened the doors to what would become one of the most popular eateries in Madrid. Alfredo’s Barbacoa now has 2 restaurants, both in the Salamanca neighbourhood and they continue to pack in the crowds at dinner times. If you’re there at the peak periods it can resemble sharks at feeding time with a frenzy of hungry diners packing out the place. And to be honest, even Jaws would be satisfied with what comes out of the kitchen and the BBQ smell in the air will get more than just Pavlov’s dog salivating. Both venues are unglamorous in appearance and relatively small, but when you’re getting good food at good prices then there is no need for fancy decoration. The walls host a stream of American paraphernalia that could have you believing that you’re dining on Route 66, and the red and white checked tablecloths finish off the traditional diner feel to a tee.

The food itself is exactly what you’d expect from a good BBQ joint; burgers, ribs, steaks, hot dogs, corn on the cob, etc. The Super Alfredo’s Burger con queso y bacon (bacon cheeseburger with bbq sauce, fries and coleslaw) is one of the top sellers and is a tasty choice, though the ribs are also finger-licking lovely. Alfredo himself admits that the menu has changed very little since the beginning and that the burgers, coleslaw and famous house BBQ sauce were all featured on the original menu. There has been no need to play with a recipe that works and only a few new dishes and desserts have been added over the years to compliment the quality meat that Alfredo serves.

Alfredo’s is somewhere that I would recommend to call ahead and reserve a table in order to avoid the disappointment of being turned away empty-bellied and sad-faced – this place gets super busy at popular times.

Hours: Lunch: 13:00 p.m.-16:30 p.m. Mon-Sat. Dinner: 20:30 p.m. -0:00 a.m. Mon-Thurs, 20:30 p.m. -01:00 a.m. Fri & Sat
Plate: 6-10 euros

Alfredo’s Barbacoa
C/Lagasca, 5
Metro: Retiro
Tel: 91 576 62 71

C/Juan Hurtado de Mendoza, 11
Metro: Cuzco
Tel: 91 345 16 39

By  Tom Burgess

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Cuban — By MAP on June 14, 2010 at 12:13 pm

Mamá Francisca: More Than Just Mojitos

Go to Mamá Francisca enough times and you begin to be treated like family.  As I walk in, Tarek, the bartender and staff manager, yells my name, blows a kiss and gets started on our Mojitos. They say that when you’re new to Madrid, you should try your best to become a “conocido” (or “regular”) somewhere—anywhere—and what better place than this delightful little Cuban corner.

Cuban owner Luisa María named the bar after her mother, Nena Francisca, who now reads fortunes at a competing larger Cuban bar, La Negra Tomasa.  What Mamá Francisca lacks in size and fancy exterior, it more than makes up for in its lively atmosphere, delicious food and drinks, unbeatable prices and charming staff.  Every now and then Regla, the restaurant Chef, will pop out of the kitchen with a dazzling smile and an impressive set of salsa moves.  “I like to dance to add some atmosphere,” she says, “sometimes people here can be a bit dry, so I try and bring what I know from my culture.”

I ask Regla about the food and as she starts explaining it becomes quite clear that the menu boasts more or less every Cuban dish on the face of the earth. Regla jokes that I had better not steal her recipes as she disappears into the kitchen and quickly brings back a steaming plate of “arroz con gris”, a deliciously spiced-up mix of white and brown rice with beans.  They are also known for their “Ropa Vieja”, or old clothes.  Which, despite its name, is supposed to be a sumptuous saucy dish.  The name comes from the way the meat is pulled and shredded before it is mixed with its typical sauce.  “We make everything!” she laughs, “can you imagine? Everything! Ribs, tamales—do you know what tamales are?”

Over at the bar, Tarek practically flies back and forth, making drinks, running tabs and switching music.  Saturday nights are always busy but he always makes time to stop, smile and say hello when anyone comes in.  The drinks here are delicious.  Try their signature Mojitos or choose from their vast tropical cocktail list.  This list boasts the classic “daiquiris” and “piña coladas” but also has more adventurous choices such as the “passion colada”, the “green demon” and “Mamá Francisca’s Special”.

The tropical decor mixed with Cuban pop and salsa hits makes for a festive atmosphere. Tarek keeps the music flowing, occasionally showing series of Cuban music videos or a big football game on the television.  The Salsa music makes it hard not to dance, or at least wiggle on your barstool.  There isn’t a large dance floor, per se, but people always make room, especially when Regla busts out her moves.

The clientele is diverse and often changing, due to its location right in the heart of Madrid’s nightlife.  Tourists often wander in, lured by the prospect of a free fruity shot.  You will also see your fair share of regulars and of people stopping by for their Friday night Mojito.  That’s probably where you’ll find me, at least.

Located just a couple of blocks from Puerta del Sol, Mamá Francisca is a perfect place for a meal or a couple of drinks with friends, or for a fun and tropical barhop stop around Sol. Even better, with “copas” at just 5 euro and cocktails between 5 and 7, you really can’t get any cheaper than Mamá Francisca. So next time you’re about to pay 12 euro for a mass-produced cocktail that tastes like fruity lip-gloss, stop yourself and head over to Mamá Francisca’s for a little taste of Cuba.  You won’t regret it, I’m sure.

Mamá Francisca
Calle Alvarez Gato, 9
Metro: Sol
Phone: 91 532 33 24
Hours: From 13:00 p.m. to 2 :30 a.m. Tuesday to Sunday.  Closed Monday.
Prices:  Restaurant: Menu for 9 euro, Bar: 5-7 euro

By Chloé Rousseau

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Spanish — By MAP on June 10, 2010 at 11:55 am

La Mantequería: Tea, Tostas and a Touch of the Big Apple


Nestled in the backstreets near Plaza de España, you could be forgiven for not having heard of La Mantequería before. But for those that have already discovered this little treat, they certainly make it one of their regulars. It’s a very simple affair, but there’s something so warm and inviting about this corner plot that it gives me a little smile each time I’m there. Although fairly small, La Mantequeria is rarely overcrowded, which makes it a perfect place if you’re looking for somewhere quiet to go with guaranteed available tables.

The first time I went I was with a friend in search for a place to chat the afternoon away. Having heard of this place from another friend we made our way to the corner of C/San Bernadino and C/San Leonardo, and I was certainly glad we did. With a large range of drinks, both alcoholic and not, including an array of posh teas, the Englishman in me was ecstatic. Though rather than opting for a classic cuppa, I went for the White Pear tea which hit the spot better than Robin Hood and his trusty bow.

It was only once sitting back, sipping my tea and taking in the café/restaurant that I really noticed my surroundings. Originally an old creamery and now converted into the café it is today, the décor features a combination of exposed brick, white walls and wrought iron furniture. Looking around, I suddenly felt like I’d been transported across the Atlantic and could easily have been in an East Village café in New York. There is no pretense in the appearance or ambience and although I didn’t bump into any A-list clientele such as those that grace the sofas of Central Perk, I did get to relax and hang with my friends.

There is also a downstairs restaurant area where you can enjoy some of the delights off the menu. Although it’s not a menu that boasts the biggest selection in town, the food they serve is pretty good. Some of the highlights on the list being the salmorejo, the tostas (the goats cheese and blackcurrant jam tosta is my particular fave) and the quiche. If you’re thinking of dinner options then perhaps head elsewhere and save La Mantequería for a ‘snack’ rather than a full meal. It’s a perfect place for small bites and  a cuppa, copa, cocktail or cana.


La Mantequería
C/San Bernardino, 7
Metro: Plaza de España / Noviciado / Ventura Rodríguez
Beverage: Teas 2-3 euros / Copas 6 euros
Plates: 7 – 12 euros
Opening: Monday to Thursday 12:00 p.m.- 2:00 a.m., Fridays & Saturdays 12:00 p.m. – 3:00 a.m., Sundays 11:00 a.m. -1:00 a.m.
Tel: 91 541 75 43

By Tom Burgess

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Restaurants & Cafés, Spanish — By Daniel Sz. on May 31, 2010 at 9:51 am

Restaurante El Botin: Essential Eating and Sightseeing in Madrid

El Botin, a renowned Restaurant in Madrid

For its owners and many of its customers El Botin is more than a restaurant: it’s an institution that comprises history, fame, longevity and tradition. Part of this solemnity is explained by the fact that after holding its place on calle de los Cuchilleros since 1725, El Botin Restaurant is by the standard of the Guinness Book of World Records the oldest restaurant in the world. Those two hundred and eighty two years have seen much change and volatility, but never dullness. In fact, the last four decades up to the present have been the best years El Botin has ever had, what with its outstanding culinary reputation, tourist site status and close link to the city’s elite—it’s even got a recommendation from Ernest Hemingway. But most of all it’s the succulent piglet roast, the house’s specialty, that keeps them coming for more.

The current owners’ grandparents bought the place over ninety years ago and the descendants are as proud as they are concerned to keep the family business and tradition in good stance. Like their menu and many of their loyal customers, El Botin relies on consistent quality rather than variety, which might explain why they still use the same oven they did in 1725 to roast meat: precisely because of its age and traditional cooking method their meat has a savory  taste. The classic piglet, a Segovian specialty, roasts in this oven for two and half hours. Before getting to Botin however, the piglets have to acquire quite specific traits: they cannot be over four kilos in weight or twenty days in age and must have only been fed, before meeting their unfortunate end, mother’s milk (this is just to show you the seriousness that is involved in the preparation)

The whole place in general has suffered little renovations since it first opened as an inn to house and feed travelers: of its three levels the cellar remains the most untouched, while the middle floor was remodeled in the mid nineteenth century. The mostly wooden interior, old photos of the place and hanging porcelain decorations make for a great atmosphere that blends in well with the delicious smells that spring from the kitchen. The restaurant itself, as the owners often like to mention, has been described by other pens much mightier than yours truly: the widely celebrated Spanish author Ramon Gomez de la Serna declared that “it seems as if Botin has existed forever, and that Adam and Eve tried the first fried lamb ever prepared in the world”. Was Serna implying that Botin was within the premises of the Garden of Eden? Blasphemy! Graham Green wasn’t very quiet about his visit to Botin and his admiration for the tasty food, while Ernest Hemingway actually became close friends with the grandfather of the current owners, Emilio Gonzalez. The restaurant is mentioned in Hemingway’s classic The Sun Also Rises: “It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta…”

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Relax; the menu has many other things apart from suckling pig. Ranking high among the classics are the restaurant’s old gazpacho recipe and its selection of Iberian hams. The roast lamb is another popular dish that is as mouthwatering as it is hard to finish, while Galician hake and clams a la Botin are the most recommended seafood dishes. The menu is in fact quite varied with many typical Spanish dishes to choose from ,which means a whole lot of potatoes, ham, green beans, eggs and chicken. There’s yet another reason to come if it happens to be after eleven o’clock: El Botin’s well known Tunos will show up in traditional clothing (and the occasional medieval guitar) to perform a musical tradition that’s over seven hundred years old. “Las Tunas” refers to groups of young men—in contemporary times university students—that would serve as troubadours and performers in medieval cities. This tradition survived in well in Spain and has been a cherished part of El Botin since its spontaneous beginnings back in 1959. Throughout the years the place’s tunos have gone to represent Spain in international world fairs and serenaded the  stream of celebrities—from king Juan Carlos I to Quentin Tarantino—that pass by the restaurant, wouldn’t it be nice to hear them too?

This is all-in-all a treat of a place worth visiting for its fine food but also the great deal of history surrounding the establishment, it’s anecdotes and heritage. May 2nd, 2009 El Botin received the silver medal from the Comunidad de Madrid for being one of Madrid’s most enduring and tasty landmarks—come visit when you can!

General price range
Starters: 7.50 – 18.75 euros
Soups: 6.50 – 16.50 euros
Egg dishes:  10 euros
Vegetable dishes: 10.25 – 13.00 euros
Fish: 17.00 – 27.00 euros (the next most expensice dish is a ration of Angulas, which costs 97.00 euros)
Meats: 11.00 – 23.00 euros

El Botin
Calle de los Cuchilleros, 17
Metro: Tirso de Molina / Sol
91 366 42 17 / 91 366 30 26
botin@restaurantebotin.com
Hours: open every day from 13:00 p.m. to 16:00 p.m. and 20:00 p.m.  to 24:00 a.m.

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By Daniel Sznajderman

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Spanish — By Daniel Sz. on May 25, 2010 at 12:06 pm

Lunch at the Madrid’s Military Palace? Why Certainly!


If you´ve ever been to Gran Vía then you´ve passed by the casino militar at least once—if you hang around there a lot then you´ve passed  it a thousand  times.  In plain sight for all to see, but rarely paid attention to by tourists, the casino militar—the actual name is El Centro Cultural de Ejercitos—is enclosed inside one of Gran Via´s spectacular turn of the century buildings, the kind  that you imagine must hold some sort of government office or be the king´s storage depot. In fact, this particular building is an exclusive army social club complete with a gym, tai-chi, massage parlor, esgrima, barbershop, events room and more. Never mind all that though, because only members can use those facilities and you must be in the army to be one. What is open to you and your wallet is lunch at the center´s dining room at a price that might surprise you.

The food at the casino militar is as Spanish as it gets, the same you´d find in any cerveceria or typical restaurant except here, quite unexpectedly, prices are lower. Go to your run of the mill places around Gran Via and calle Alcala and the daily fixed priced menu—the traditional choice for a business lunch—will be between eleven and fifteen euros.  At the casino militar it costs no more than nine euros while the permanent menu is fourteen fifty.

Upon entering the solemn 1916 building you have to go to the second floor to get to the dining room. If you can walk rather than take the lift you will run into a good number of classic military portraits and statues from the 19th century as well as swords and even knight´s armor from who knows when.

The dining room itself is ample and simple: a big room surrounded by white walls barely covered by the occasional nature portrait and a tall roof from which three chandeliers hang silently. Despite this lack of luxury, looking down to busy Gran Via from the tall classy windows you might wonder how it is that a nine euro meal got you such a good view. Speaking of the meal, the daily menu looks something like this: for starters fish soup; artichokes with ham; noodles with ham and an apple and chicken salad; for main course meatballs with rice, stuffed red peppers, grilled grouper fish and huevos a la flamenco (a sort of egg, ham and tomato stew).  The permanent menu is not very different, among the highlights there´s the melon soup with Iberian ham, a mushroom and shrimp pastry and lamb chops with salad. If you´re wondering about desserts just think of the most Spanish sweets you can: arroz con leche, chocolate pie, puff pastries—they´re all here and included in the menu.

Come have a quality meal at a great price inside one of Gran Via´s beautiful historic buildings!

Centro Cultural de los Ejercitos de Madrid
Gran Via, 13
Metro: Gran Via / Banco de España
34 91 522 24 09
Hours: Open all week for lunch from 13:00 p.m. to 16:30 p.m.

By Daniel Sznajderman

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Vegetarian — By Daniel Sz. on May 25, 2010 at 11:46 am

Tomavida: Organic and Eco-Friendly Food Store in Madrid

It became popular in the U.S. and parts of Europe a while ago, it’s even had a start up in Barcelona, but the concept of organic and eco-friendly food has yet to settle in for good in Madrid. Enter Tomavida, perhaps the city’s only mini market, deli and takeaway that adheres to the health benefits of organic products and eco-minded philosophy of using products from environmentally responsible companies and individuals.

Open for less than a year in a small locale in the Chueca neighborhood, Tomavida is still adjusting and struggling to get its name out and find a solid customer base. It’s something that I hope this family run business can achieve because it’s as eclectic as it is honest about what it sells: you can tell the owners don’t just sell their products to make a living but also do so believing they are doing something good.

But enough praise about family businesses and eco-conscience; what does the store actually sell and is it worth going? The answer is a lot of things and yes, definitely worth visiting.  Apart from selling a variety of local and imported products from grains to fruits and vegetables, it is also a deli that offers delicious sandwiches, hamburgers, salads and soups. What gives this place its special twist is that because the owners come from the Balkans the menu is a mixture of eastern European and Spanish food, even with a little bit of Mediterranean added in.

Evidently there are many things that set this small kitchen apart from others you might find in Madrid, unfortunately one of them is that its products tend to be a bit more expensive than in your standard store. This is understandable and may be expected since healthy and eco-friendly products usually cost more than your standard, but don’t be dismayed: higher costs do point to better quality and this applies to products on sale—as far as prices for cooked meals go these aren’t more expensive than your average lunch spot in the city center. Also, because Tomavida wants your attention they’ve set up a facebook account where you can check out the day’s menu and order free home delivery (starting from 20 euros and up and with a 3 euros surcharge).

As it’s already been said this a very small store, but you’d be surprised at all the stuff that fits inside: natural juices; a wide selection of grains (rice, lentils, chickpeas, beans, cuscus and more), all sorts of marmalade and honey products, pasta (with and without gluten), sugar and different varieties of coffee. This being what you may call a “health nut” store it’s obvious that there’s enough muesli, granola, soy and tofu to feed a whole green peace guerrilla squadron.  Other hard to find items available are dried seaweed, sesame paste, foie gras and tofu products. You’ve also got a selection of ordinary canned and bottled products such as ketchup, wok and soy sauces, olive oil, bottled green beans, corn and the like. Finally, don’t forget the wide variety of fresh fruits, vegetables and milk products available too.

As for the cooked and prepared meals, most look as tasty as they are. There’s ham, salami, meat and turkey and lots of cheeses—feta, Greek, parmesan, manchego to name a few—for sandwiches and also many vegetable combinations for big salad plates. Chicken and meat main courses are especially good quality; the meat, originating from small farms in Asturias and Galicia, can also be bought uncooked per kilo.

If your eating habits border the healthy and sustainable this is a place you’ve got to know about, if not, it’s a good chance to taste the difference—they’ve even got eco-friendly San Miguel beer!

Menu prices:
Soups – 4.00
Salads – 4.80
Starters – 5.20
Mains – 7.50
Sandwiches – 4.60
Burgers – 5.00 to 9.00

Tomavida
c/ Valgame Dios, 2
Metro: Chueca
91 182 5488
Hours:  11:00 a.m. – 23:00 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays / 13:00 p.m. – 23:00 p.m. Sundays
Delivery Hours: Mondays through Saturdays 13:30 p.m. – 16:30 p.m.

By Daniel Sznajderman


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