The Bloody History of the Rastro

The Rastro,
Madrid’s
largest outdoor market can only be described as “a universe unto itself”. With origins that stretch back nearly five centuries,
one can only imagine the plentitude of traditions surrounding this massive
Sunday event.

The word “Rastro”
actually translates as “track” or “trace”.
This is apparently due to the fact that at the epicenter of what has
become this sprawling commercial phenomena were members of the tanning
trade. The process of dragging the
slaughtered animals to these craftsmen, of course, left a blood trail bound to
be noticed by all – hence the name.

One might
wonder what caused the masses to flock to these carnage-strewn streets in such
numbers. Hint: it wasn’t the opportunity to stand around
ankle deep in blood. Logically, the
clothing makers and other associated trades also positioned themselves along
side the tanners and a commercial district was born.

Today the
traditions accumulated throughout these long years are still thriving. The principal road is Ribera de Curtidores -
walking its length you will find every product imaginable from t-shirts to
jewelry to music to hand bags. Contrary
to Rastro tradition most of these items are not locally made these days – a
hodge-podge of trash and treasures. In
the crushing crowds it’s easy to loose site of one’s surroundings, but keep
your eyes out. The side streets are more
specialized than the main thoroughfare.

As a
general rule the streets to the east of Ribera de Curtidores offer more
commercial goods, a hot spot for great deals.
The streets to the west host more antiques. Here you shift from shopping mode to archeological
excavation and the pay-off is usually insight not bargains. In between the east and west at the
intersection of Calle de Amazonas and Ribera de Curtidores is a huge stepped
area for taking a rest and relaxing in the sun.
Often it’s full of musicians having a drum circle

To the East:

Calle de
San Cayetano is the street of painters. There is a wide range of tastes and abilities
here, but, as always, gems can be found.
They also sell a lot of frames for your own art.

Calle Fray
Ceferino González is the street of birds – yes, live birds. A lot of pet shops line these streets and can
make for a diversion all its own.

To the West:

The Calle
de Carnero, leading off the main drag, is just one of the streets that offer a
rambling selection of antiques.

It
intersects Calle Carlos Arniches which runs parallel to Ribera de Curtidores and
hosts more antiques. Dealers here
casually display their goods on blankets or in make-shift stalls – you can find
everything from coins to crucifixes to old furniture.

On the
north side, Arniches runs into the Plaza del General Vara Del Rey which is full
of more antiques as well as second hand clothes.

And after a
long day of bargain hunting begins the next ritual – cañas (little beers)! The entire area around Plaza de la Paja is
chalk-a-block full of revelers who are enjoying the summer sun or the cozy
winter taverns in the area.

Stay tuned
for more information on this scene it deserves of its own review.